Kayaking Loch Awe

Introduction

Maybe it was the name that first attracted me, maybe the proximity to Glasgow or maybe the length of it. Loch Awe was the third loch I ever paddled on. I’d practised on Loch Tummel and another smaller loch near the Cairngorms but Loch Awe was the one I really wanted to paddle on.

Possibly I should have been more experienced when first tackling it solo and I definitely shouldn’t have done it in a single skinned inflatable kayak which was exactly what was racing through my mind as I paddled into the vastness of the loch just before the first set of islands at the mouth of the River Cruachan.

Getting there

Loch Awe is an hour & forty five minute drive from Glasgow, the route taking you past Loch Lomond towards Crianlarich. Stops to consider along the way are Firkin Point, Falls of Falloch and it’s always worth stopping at the Green Welly in Tyndrum, their haggis pies are amazing.

https://mobile.twitter.com/thegreenwelly?lang=en-gb

https://www.thegreenwellystop.co.uk/

Kit

Loch Awe is the third largest freshwater loch in Scotland. It’s also the longest freshwater loch in Scotland. 41 kilometres (25m) end to end.

Whilst the average width is only a kilometre (0.62 mi) there are times particularly at the mouth of the River Cruachan and feeling quite exposed just past the islands where the loch can become quite difficult to paddle and very windy.

After another long lockdown and barely paddling all 2020 it was good to plan a solo trip for 2021. I’d wanted to come two weeks earlier but roof rack issues and then bad weather postponed it.

I always have several options on locations when planning wild camping kayaking trips. Weather being the most important factor, wind speed on a large body of water should always be considered as should night time temperatures. It can be bitterly cold in the highlands when the sun goes down.

Day One

There are two possible starting options, the first is under the railway bridge at Cruachan which is the access to Kilchurn Castle and worth visiting.

The other starting point is Ford where there are lodgings available and also parking for a very reasonable fee. This can be a torturous drive alongside Loch Awe which is all single track road.

I set out from the bridge early in the morning to decent weather and a fairly flat loch. I quickly reached St Conans Kirk, a fascinating chapel built between 1881 – 1886 in a variety of styles from Roman to Norman.

Next came the island of Innis Chonnain which was owned by the architect who built the Kirk and featured a mansion built in a similar style. I hugged the coastline and kayaked under the bridge connecting the island to the mainland at the village of Loch Awe.

Once past this isLand I quickly came to the next clump of islands which includes Fraoch Eilean. I slept next to the ruined castle on the island one night which was a night full of bad dreams and waking up feeling freaked out because of the castle. I quickly crossed the mouth of Cruachan, today there was barely any wind. There have been previous trips where I’ve battled against ferocious winds on this part of the trip.

Quickly past the Black Islands and onward another 14 miles towards my destination and hopeful camp site for the night Kames Bay. It’s a long, hard slog Loch Awe and whilst the weather was amazing the lack of wind made me feel I was paddling in treacle at times.

I was curious when I came across this sign and I did stop for a while to see if I could see anything but not that curious I’d thrown caution away and step ashore.

Day Two

After reaching Kames bay I had a choice. I hadn’t gotten as far as I needed to put me in a position I could complete a there and back of Loch Awe. I could either carry on another 11 miles and then try to make up time and complete a further 25 miles to get back to Kilchurn Castle.

I decided on the lazier option of heading back to Kilchurn. Initially I’d intended making a start the night I got there rather than the following morning. That would have gotten me to the Black Islands which would have given me a good chance of getting all the way down the loch, see Ford and sleep on the island of Innis Errich. This was not to be but I will be back.