Kerrera

The island of Kerrera lies just off the coast facing Oban. Reaching it is via a ferry from Gallanach, a little further south than Oban. It’s then a ten minute trip in a little ferry that crosses the Sound of Kerrera. Tickets can be booked online.

https://www.calmac.co.uk/article/5558/Kerrera-Gallanach—Kerrera

There is also a water taxi that runs from Oban.

https://kerreramarina.com/book-a-ferry

It is not a large island, only 4 miles long and barely a mile wide. Hardly any one lives there, a population of under forty and there isn’t even really a village you’d recognise. Just a small collection of houses dotted around, mainly on the eastern side.

However, it’s quiet, off the beaten track, isn’t by any means a strenuous walk, has an easily accessible and deeply photogenic castle. There is also just before the castle, the prettiest tea garden (& bunkhouse) serving home made cakes with panoramic views across the Firth of Lorn.

It really is a very pretty island and overlooked by tourists heading for the better known, more illustrious and bigger islands of the Inner and Outer Hebrides. Which are all mostly reached from the main ferry terminal at Oban.

Leaving the ferry behind you walk up the pier and turn left it’s then a gentle stroll for about three miles down to Gylen castle and the tea rooms.

I absolutely caught the late autumn sunshine on this trip and enjoyed a walk along the coast of Kerrera looking across at the Scottish mainland with a big blue sky overhead.

Half a mile down the track I came across a small monument to the first transatlantic telephone cable system which I had no idea even existed, but then why would I? This is the second time I’ve stumbled across a transatlantic communication system the other being the telegraph cable which starts at Valentia island off the coast of County Kerry in Ireland.

Continuing on the walk I started seeing tea pots and cute little signs on the way to the much recommended tea rooms just before the castle

Passed the turn off for the tea room and headed straight down to the castle. There is a public toilet on the way down.

Gylen Castle was built in 1582 by the Clan McDougall, the castle barely managed 100 years of occupation before it was besieged and burned down in 1647. Just the tower house remains these days but visible evidence of what existed.

What next?

Firstly the tea room for a coffee, cake and blue views across the Firth of Lorn. The sea was so flat I had this amazing piece of rhubarb and custard sponge cake and considered my options.

In the distance across the sea are Scarba, Luing, Seil, possibly Jura at the back and I think Insh on the right of the picture (the slightly darker island.) From here you can walk back to the ferry terminal which is roughly forty five minutes. Or you can do a full loop of the island as per the below, which would take at least another ninety minutes.

Full loop it is then. I saw quite few people on the way to the castle and at least three cyclists. This side of Kerrera though I didn’t see another person just wildlife. Sheep and cows standard. The herd of wild goats was quite cool, didn’t get to see any of the sika deer who live on the southern part of the island.

Played a solo game of rock or seal on the way round the western part of the island. Rock won by a landslide sadly.

I did see some otters while waiting for the ferry back to Gallanach which was cool.

It was a lovely walk around the island, fairly gentle and broken up by the tea room and castle. Some great views all the way around.

Kerrera is the ninety seventh Scottish island I’ve visited. Next it’s half way down the Mull of Kintyre and a place called Taylinoan to catch the morning ferry to Gigha for some walking and kayaking and to get my island total over a hundred.